Braving the Umcompaghre, Earning Passage to Utah

See here Part II of a travel log featuring golf on the Colorado Plateau. For the first installment, click here.

The locals in Delta, Colo., may warn city slickers away from the vaunted road to Nucla, but do ignore them. A ride through the Umcompaghre Reserve is not to be missed. At one stage the motorist is convinced he’s barreling into oblivion, as a pair of cavernous canyons slowly encroach on either side of your gravel ribbon. Rest assured you will find your way down, to safety. Just make sure you’ve set aside plenty of time, check that your rental has a viable spare tire, and bring your camera.

Having negotiated the Umcompaghre, the road to Nucla will deposit you on Highway 191 which runs north-south along the eastern edge of Utah. Turn right (north) and it’s 40 minutes into Moab, home to Arches National Park with its breathtaking rock formations, myriad southwestern eateries of high quality (check out the Desert Bistro and its goat cheese-stuffed, corn tortilla-crusted chicken breast), and a lovely little golf course by the name of Moab GC. Designed and built by the owners, it’s just 6,400 from the middle tees but the track is beautifully kept and wiggles cleverly into the foothills outside of town.

Turn left (south) on 191 and it’s 20 minutes into Monticello, home to the region’s newest destination course (with drives like this, they all fit this description). The Hideout GC (pictured above) was built across the street from any old uranium mill using federal dollars left over from the inevitable Superfund clean-up. Designed by Phoenix-based architect Forrest Richardson, The Hideout rises well above the novelty of its odd development history. The gorgeous 4th and 16th holes run side by side (in opposite directions) atop a ridge that marks the land for what it is: glorious, high chaparral. Holes rise and fall, dart in and out of miniature canyons, and slice their way through thick stands of cottonwood and choke cherry — all in the shadow of the mighty Abajos, a free-standing mountain range that tops out at some 11,500 feet. Overlooking the entire scene is the Horse of Abajo, an outline of trees on the eastern face which, as locals point out, really does resemble the head of a noble, all-seeing stallion.

Just over the Abajos from Monticello lies Canyonlands National Park. It’s a 20-mile drive into the wilderness before one even reaches the park entrance, and blowing down this remarkable access road at dusk — or in either direction on Highway 191 — can be a disorienting sensory experience. In the distance, long strings of deep purple clouds appear to settle atop and extend beyond the surrounding buttes, creating an irregular and ever-shifting horizon of soil, rock and, on occasion, impending weather. Radio reception out here isn’t so great; in the resulting silence of a rental car, or standing in the red dust at a roadside look-out, one revels in the seclusion and shudders slightly at the many peoples who over the centuries have arrived, thrived and been extinguished here in this unforgiving landscape.

An hour east of Monticello is Mesa Verde National Park, where tribes of ancestral Pueblos carved a life for themselves in a series of remote canyons some 800 years ago. The cliff dwellings here are as eerie as they are awesome. Somehow it comes as no surprise to learn the thriving culture which built these cities in relief disappeared as abruptly as they appeared — the victims of severe drought, unrelenting enemies, or cannibalism. Theories abound on their plight but, in truth, no one knows for sure. The Four Corners region, where Utah, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona come together, has for millennia been home to tribes of indigenous peoples. The Spanish arrived circa 1500 and modern American “civilization” turned up only 150 years ago. It is the confluence of these cultures — some extant, some recently supplanted, some long gone — that makes the place, the cuisine, the general ambience so distinctive.

Does golf work alongside buffalo meat and abandoned cliff dwellings? Well, that’s like asking whether it goes with haggis and the derelict castles of Robert the Bruce. Just remember this particular tableau is a mile high — so drop a club to account for the elevation.

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