{"id":1558,"date":"2015-07-16T11:05:55","date_gmt":"2015-07-16T18:05:55","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/theaposition.com\/herbgould\/?p=1558"},"modified":"2015-07-20T15:43:54","modified_gmt":"2015-07-20T22:43:54","slug":"portmarnock-a-close-encounter-with-rory-begins-the-tour","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/theaposition.com\/herbgould\/travel\/1558\/portmarnock-a-close-encounter-with-rory-begins-the-tour","title":{"rendered":"Portmarnock: A close encounter with Rory begins our Irish tour"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Even<\/a>

Even on a bright sunny day, when the flags take a beating from the wind at Portmarnock, the golfers won’t be far behind.<\/p><\/div>\n

Portmarnock ought to be a very calming place to begin a tour of Irish golf links. It is relatively flat, especially during its opening stretch.<\/p>\n

And while it is one of the world\u2019s consensus top-100 golf courses, Portmarnock also is an inviting, understated golf course that feels like a step back in time.<\/p>\n

Its first hole, a slight dogleg left, doesn\u2019t appear to be demanding. But on a bright sunny morning like the one that greeted us, there was mischief in the Irish air.<\/p>\n

That seemingly light left-to-right breeze, masked by the sedate clubhouse to the left of the first tee, stood ready to grab tee shots and push them into the tall grass, if not the estuary of the Irish Sea that runs all along the right side.<\/p>\n

On No. 2, which turns into the wind a bit more, over-compensating will leave determined tee shots in the wispy stuff left of the fairway. The fairways tend to be generous at Portmarnock. But courtesy of the wind, they are not as generous as you think.<\/p>\n

And every small misstep brings Portmarnock\u2019s other defenses\u2014dangerous, strategically placed pot bunkers and the rolling terrain on and around the greens\u2014into play.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The staid Portmarnock clubhouse is comfortable. And those big windows provide a great view.<\/p><\/div>\n

Liz and I were pondering these challenges on the third fairway when a gentleman in coat-and-tie approached in a buggy.<\/p>\n

“Rory McIlroy and some friends have just teed off on No. 1,\u2019\u2019 the gent said. “Would you mind letting them play through if they catch up to you?\u2019\u2019<\/p>\n

No problem, we said.<\/p>\n

Anything for the No. 1 player in the world.<\/p>\n

With that, we moved along, taking in the challenges of Portmarnock. Originally opened in 1894, it\u00a0is just a 15-minute drive east of the Dublin Airport and a half-hour northeast of the popular Guinness Brewery in downtown Dublin.<\/p>\n

In the most important way, though, Portmarnock is a step back in time, to when golf was played with wooden shafts by gentlemen in coats and ties, and ladies in flowing skirts.<\/p>\n

Its accolades are many.<\/p>\n

“One of the two or three toughest courses in all of Ireland,\u2019\u2019 James Finegan observed in his 1990s classic, `Emerald Fairways and Foam-Flecked Seas.\u2019 His others? Waterville and Adare Manor.<\/p>\n

I wouldn\u2019t agree with that, because I don\u2019t remember Waterville as being all that perilous. And because within the week, I would find Royal County Down and Royal Portrush much more demanding, in terms of shotmaking and golfballs.<\/p>\n

There is no doubt, though, that Portmarnock is a gem.<\/p>\n

“Entirely playable. Doesn\u2019t beat you up like some [other Irish links courses],\u2019\u2019 the Portmarnock pro told Tom Coyne in his amusing and insightful “A Course Called Ireland.\u2019\u2019<\/p>\n

Also true. And yet, Portmarnock is very capable of taking care of itself. Especially with the aid of that wind.<\/p>\n