{"id":708,"date":"2013-10-02T11:59:04","date_gmt":"2013-10-02T18:59:04","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/theaposition.com\/herbgould\/?p=708"},"modified":"2014-08-01T08:59:26","modified_gmt":"2014-08-01T15:59:26","slug":"turnberry-a-delight-in-twilight","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/theaposition.com\/herbgould\/golf\/708\/turnberry-a-delight-in-twilight","title":{"rendered":"Turnberry a delight in twilight"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"RAF<\/a>

RAF monument overlooks 12th green, with Turnberry Hotel off in distance<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

There are many mesmerizing views at Turnberry. They include the giant Ailsa Craig rock in the Firth of Clyde and the charming Turnberry lighthouse, all in the backdrop of a gorgeous hilly links course that overlooks a rocky beach as beautiful and ominous as the one at Pebble Beach.<\/p>\n

Mixed in with these scenes is a haunting sight\u2014the surprisingly intact remains of a long-abandoned runway that stretches for more than 1,000 yards in between fairways and greens. As a history major who wrote a thesis on the media coverage of D-Day, I found this World War II (and World War I) runway an especially solemn reminder of what previous generations faced so we could live the lives we lead.<\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>

Monument to fallen RAF fliers on Ailsa Course<\/p><\/div>\n

Just 38 miles south of Prestwick airport, which became and remains an important airfield because of its generally benign weather conditions, Turnberry was used as a wartime training base. The grand Turnberry Hotel that sits above the resort\u2019s two golf courses was used as a military hospital.<\/p>\n

Its military past is just a footnote at the modern Turnberry. Its plush hotel, which opened in 1906 as a railroad attraction on the order of Idaho\u2019s Sun Valley or Canada\u2019s Chateau Frontenac, is a refurbished monument to luxury. We enjoyed marvelous food and an excellent single-malt collection here. And the views from the hotel terrace, which looks down on the two golf courses and the sea, easily explain why this \u00a0location was chosen.<\/p>\n

The opulence of the Turnberry Hotel gives a different approach than most Scottish golf experiences\u2014and it requires deeper pockets. But the lure of those two golf courses, especially the Ailsa, which has been the scene of historic British Opens, is irresistible on many fronts.<\/p>\n

Its Open history, which includes the 1977 Duel in the Sun between Tom Watson and Jack Nicklaus and Watson\u2019s remarkable 2009 bid to win his sixth Open (and ninth major) at the age of 59, is special. The biggest surprise, perhaps, is that the \u201977 Open was only the first of four on a beautiful and challenging course that feels so historic it seems like it\u2019s been in the rota forever.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The signature eighth hole at Turnberry’s Kintyre course, a fun and beautiful short par-four.<\/p><\/div>\n

The Ailsa course, among the most beautiful in the world, is the big reason golfers come to Turnberry. For bogey players, though, the Kintyre course is fun and interesting and beautiful\u2014and closer to Turnberry\u2019s historic runway museum. It’s also a nice relaxed track for better players.<\/p>\n

We almost missed the Kintyre experience. Our friends, Susan and Ron, had found a two-night American Express package that dropped the Turnberry price from really expensive to merely expensive. It included a round of golf, but when we found out it was on the Kintyre, rather than the famous Ailsa course, we switched to a twilight round on the Ailsa course for a reasonable 99 pounds.<\/p>\n

Since we were arriving late Friday afternoon and wanted to catch a glimpse of Glasgow on Sunday, our final day in Scotland, we gave up our Kintyre tee time. Between Ron\u2019s balky back and Liz\u2019s disinterest in playing 36 holes in a day, that made sense.<\/p>\n

After checking in Friday afternoon, we walked down the hill to the golf course for a drink and a snack, and a look at the pro shop\u2019s souvenir options. It was so beautiful\u2014Scotland\u2019s remarkable summery weather was out in full force\u2014that I couldn\u2019t resist inquiring about a morning tee time on the Kintyre. After all, we weren\u2019t teeing off until 5 p.m. on the Ailsa.<\/p>\n

Told there was an opening for two players around 9 a.m., I jumped at it, telling Liz she could chill out with Susan\u2014they had a spa appointment. Not knowing when an opportunity to play here would arise again, I wanted to see both courses. And the Kintyre greens fee was included in our package, which made it a no-brainer.<\/p>\n

“I\u2019m coming with you,\u2019\u2019 Liz said. “I want to see it, too.\u2019\u2019<\/p>\n

As it turned, she and Susan were able to visit the spa around 2 p.m., which allowed her to play both courses and do the spa thing.<\/p>\n