{"id":997,"date":"2011-12-26T15:30:44","date_gmt":"2011-12-26T22:30:44","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/traveltattler.com\/?p=997"},"modified":"2011-12-26T15:45:11","modified_gmt":"2011-12-26T22:45:11","slug":"inside-communist-cuba-the-forbidden-fruits-of-havana","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/golf\/courses-and-travel\/997\/inside-communist-cuba-the-forbidden-fruits-of-havana","title":{"rendered":"INSIDE COMMUNIST CUBA &#8211; The Forbidden Fruits of Havana"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>It wasn\u2019t just the plate of caballo \u2013 roasted horse \u2013 sitting in front of me at El Patio, an open-air restaurant in Havana\u2019s Plaza de La Cathedral that made the night in Cuba surreal. It was also the sight of the dramatic moonlight illuminating the crumbling Catedral San Cristobal &#8211; completed in 1777 and purported to, at one time, house the casket of Christopher Columbus \u2013 and the sound of the five classical musicians playing in the square. Beauty\u2026sustaining\u2026in a forbidden fiefdom left behind by time and politics.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_998\" style=\"width: 310px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-998\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-998\" src=\"http:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/34\/2011\/12\/Michael-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-998\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">MPS in Cathedral Square in Old Havana<\/p><\/div>\n<p style=\"text-align: right\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Havana is by no means a foodie destination, but I washed down the horse, (salty and served with beans, rice and plantains) with decent wine in an elegant atmosphere at a price tourists could easily afford but Cuban citizens could only dream of. I spoke with a young woman, a mother of one, who is employed in the communist system at a ration distribution center by day and works the streets by night. \u201cThere are two classes of people here. The government caters to the tourists, but doesn\u2019t care about us,\u201d she said. When I asked her if that bothered her, she answered, in Spanish, \u201cHow could it not?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>She mentioned that some of her friends would soon set sail in an escape attempt for the freedom of Florida by boat, so I inquired as to whether she planned to go, too? \u201cNo, no,\u201d she said wide-eyed, making a biting motion with her fingernails. \u201cTiburon (trans: shark) chomp chomp!\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Despite the frequent \u201cpassing the hat\u201d by musicians in every single restaurant, I never felt endangered or menaced as a tourist on the streets of Old Havana. My colleague Jason Pater, from Grand Rapids, speaks fluent Spanish and served as a capable translator, often abbreviating my adventure attempts with the line: \u201cMi amigo no sabe lo que esta hablando, su corazon es bueno, dejalo en Paz,\u201d which he told me meant \u201cMy friend doesn&#8217;t know what he is saying. His heart is good. Leave him in peace.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Cuban government penalties for disturbing visitors are severe, since tourism dollars account for 70-percent of the failing economy. Rather than displaying resentment, Cubans on the street seemed delighted to meet the rare \u201cAmericano\u201d since, due to the U.S. trade embargo, \u201cYankees\u201d without special permission are forbidden to visit Cuba or \u201ctrade with the enemy.\u201d It is that half-century long embargo that Manuel Yepe Menendez, dictator Fidel Castro\u2019s now retired protocol chief, blames, rather than their socialist system, for the island\u2019s state of physical and economic disrepair. Men\u00e9ndez, 75, was an original participant in the 1958 Cuban Revolution and served as a close ally to the Castro bothers and Che Guevara. He is one of the people authorized by the Cuban Government to meet with U.S. visitors.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_999\" style=\"width: 310px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-999\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-999\" src=\"http:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/34\/2011\/12\/U2-rocket-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-999\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wreckage of the American U2 plane next to a replica of the Cuban missile which shot it down at Havana&#039;s Museum of the Revolution <\/p><\/div>\n<p>\u201cIs there anything at all about our American ideals or activities that you do admire or at least appreciate?\u201d I asked Menendez during a long (guided) drive to a tobacco farm in the countryside. After pondering my question for a moment, he answered, \u201cYour movies. We love your movies.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>But don\u2019t try to find a copy of Entertainment Weekly, or any newspaper or magazine while walking the cobblestone streets, for that matter. In a land that reveres American correspondent Ernest Hemingway, (his home Finca La Vigia, overlooking Havana, is a museum, while his favorite bar, the daiquiri-inventing Floridita, boasts a life-sized statue of \u201cPapa\u201d) newsstands are filled with only government history books about Chez Guevara, Jose Marti, and Castro. The daily newspaper, Granma International, prints slanted propaganda stories. One local equated Granma to toilet paper &#8211; also a luxury in Cuba. Someone outside the bathroom door will sell you a few sheets of tissue on your way in, and public toilets do not have seats.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1001\" style=\"width: 310px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1001\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1001\" src=\"http:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/34\/2011\/12\/Cuba-Food-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-1001\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A plate for horse for dinner at El Patio, in Havana&#039;s Cathedral Square<\/p><\/div>\n<p>It was also surreal to tour the Museum of the Revolution and quietly witness a ceremony during which a Cuban general presented an award to a citizen while the attendees, standing in perfect lines, shouted \u201cViva Fidel!\u201d The museum featured, among other anti-U.S. exhibits, a replica of the missile the Castro regime used to shoot down an American U2 spy plane next to the burned wreckage of the aircraft. Still operating in Havana, though, are the American vintage cars: countless Buick, Oldsmobile, Chevy, Cadillac, Hudson, DeSoto, and even Edsel tail-fined beauties rolling through the streets, many touched up with house paint, and dating back to the 1920\u2019s!<\/p>\n<p>Before I boarded the flight back to Toronto, I sampled and sipped plenty of late night Mojitos, Cuba Libres, Pina Coladas and, as Fredo Corleone ordered in \u201cGodfather II,\u201d Banana Daquiris at The Nacional Hotel. A torpedo-sized Montecristo or Cohiba Cuban cigar, 35-dollars anywhere else and illegal in the U.S., is $5 in Havana\u2026very affordable, for touristas, that is.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center\">Michael Patrick Shiels may be contacted at<a href=\"InviteYourself@aol.com\"> InviteYourself@aol.com<\/a> or via<a href=\"www.TravelTattler.com\"> www.TravelTattler.com<\/a><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1002\" style=\"width: 310px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1002\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1002\" src=\"http:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/34\/2011\/12\/car-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-1002\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vintage American cars roll past Cuba&#039;s former Capital Dome in Havana<\/p><\/div>\n<div id=\"attachment_1000\" style=\"width: 310px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1000\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1000 \" src=\"http:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/34\/2011\/12\/Michael-with-director-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-1000\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">MPS with Cuban diplomat Manuel Yepe Menendez, dictator Fidel Castro\u2019s now retired protocol chief<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It wasn\u2019t just the plate of caballo \u2013 roasted horse \u2013 sitting in front of me at El Patio, an&#8230;  <a class=\"excerpt-read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/golf\/courses-and-travel\/997\/inside-communist-cuba-the-forbidden-fruits-of-havana\" title=\"ReadINSIDE COMMUNIST CUBA &#8211; The Forbidden Fruits of Havana\">Read more &raquo;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":43,"featured_media":998,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[17],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-997","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-courses-and-travel"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/34\/2011\/12\/Michael.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/997","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/43"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=997"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/997\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1004,"href":"https:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/997\/revisions\/1004"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/998"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=997"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=997"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/theaposition.com\/traveltattler\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=997"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}