12 Beers of Christmas 2022 Reprise

[Dec. 22, 2023]–The news arrived two days ago that U.S. Steel has agreed to be acquired by the Japanese company Nippon Steel, a deal worth close to $15 billion. One can only hope it all works out better for U.S. Steel than it did for the Anchor Brewing Co., purchased by Sapporo in 2017 (for $85 million).

Other than a wretched re-branding in 2021 the Japanese mega-brewery seemed to be keeping a relative hands-off approach to the San Francisco brewery, which has been around for 127 years, roughly the last fifty as a beacon of the craft brewery movement. But things went sideways this summer, when it was announced in June that Anchor would no longer distribute outside of California and even worse—for our concerns here—not produce its Christmas beer, Our Special Ale, for 2023.

Some 2023 Anchor Christmas Ale was briefly available at the brewery. I didn’t get any. (Photo from Untappd)

That was bad enough. But it was only a cruel teaser. Barely a month later the ax fell altogether, and Sapporo shuttered the brewery completely and prepared to sell off all the equipment.

It was a shock to the system of those of us who acknowledge Anchor as a critical player, really one of the first, in launching the entire craft brewing movement.

Well, this isn’t really a story about Anchor, though its story isn’t necessarily over; a group called the Anchor SF Cooperative is raising funds to try to acquire at least the brewery’s intellectual properties. And other potential buyers are said to be interested. One can hope the brewery, and its Christmas ale, will rise again.

This is a story about the 12 Beers of Christmas, my annual wacky endeavor to try and write some kind of cogent review of 12 holiday ales or winter warmers in as many days if possible (it usually isn’t). This is also the twelfth straight year I’ve done this, meaning by the end of this year’s effort the bulging list of Christmas beers past will reach 144.

For those new to the game, every beer I’ve had has been different (all listed and linked to below), but I always began each year with the Anchor Christmas Ale, 1) because it was essentially a new beer with a new recipe every year and 2) because since its first appearance in 1975 the Anchor beer pretty much single-handedly revived the very notion of producing a special beer for the holidays. I’ve extended the notion to include beers that are considered winter warmers–something seasonally special to get us through the winter solstice and onto the 12th day of Christmas (January 5).

It’s been getting a little tougher to find beers I haven’t had before. More accurately, I’ve probably been getting a little lazier in tracking them down and requesting them from brewers. This year I relied strictly on what I could find at the better beers stores within reasonable driving distance. And therefore, for the second time and second year in a row, it’s an all-U.S.A. collection.

The Anchor lacuna makes the Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale and Deschutes Brewery Jubelale the two longest-lasting Christmas beers in the U.S. (Celebration since 1981, Jubelale since 1986), which is a good enough reason to warm up with them every year. (It’s usually pretty easy to find Samuel Adams Winter Lager, too. All are in the photo up top, along with one of four Anchor holdovers from the cellar, the 2019 offering.)

Neither Sierra Nevada nor Deschutes change the recipes of these beers from year to year. The Deschutes was on the list in 2014, and in 2021 when the brewery thoughtfully sent me the Imperial Cherry Jubelale. What Deschutes does change every year is the Jubelale artwork, and this year’s label is a collage by Ben Woodcock, who actually worked at the brewery for a decade while studying design at Portland State University. Some of his earliest designs were for the chalkboard at the Deschutes Portland taproom.

Artist Ben Woodcock with his label work

There was a real mix of styles and strengths in last year’s beers. Four of them were under 6% ABV, with the Lone Pine Winter Carnival White Ale the lowest at 5.2%. (Only two beers in this year’s batch are under 6%.) The Fremont Brewing B-Bomb blew the doors off at 14%, and was quite possibly my favorite in the lineup. The Sugar Plum Fairy from Four Quarters was right up there too, though, as was the Feest Noel from Three Taverns. The Wassail from the Woodstock Inn Brewery, if not a show-stopper, seemed the perfect beer for the moment.

In truth, it was a solid roster all around. Even my marshmallow doubts about the Black Hog Gingerbread S’mores Stout proved spurious. My favorite post of the series was the one for Samuel Adams Old Fezziwig, since it gave me the chance to confirm that the Alastair Sim film version of “A Christmas Carol” is the best of the lot and to unravel the charming history of the actress playing Fred’s maid.

We can hope for as many tasty ones this year. Like the wobbly defendant before a judge who tells him, “You’ve been brought before me for drinking,” we say with enthusiasm, “Well, let’s get started!” Here are the links to the 132 predecessors:

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The 12 Beers of Christmas

2022