Sage Run
When infamous Bobby Knight coached at Indiana, he once compared a road game to Penn State as a “camping trip.” For downstate golfers in Michigan, playing in the Upper Peninsula might be the same comparison. But make no mistake about it: it’s well worth it.
We started planning our golf and travel trip to the UP a year prior. That’s because we had Isle Royale National Park on our itinerary, a remote island location in the northwest part of Lake Superior off the Keweenaw Peninsula. If you wish to stay at the lodge, you must book a year in advance.
The first course we played was Sage Run Golf Club, one of two golf courses owned and run by The Island Resort & Casino in Harris, MI, approximately a 2 1/2 drive west from the Mackinac Bridge. Sage Run, a sister course to Sweetgrass GC located alongside the Resort, was designed by Michigan architect Paul Albanese (who also did Sweetgrass) and opened in July 2018.
To be candid, our original plan was to play Sweetgrass, a course that opened to favorable reviews in 2008. I recall some golf buddies returning from there several years ago raving about its high-end country club conditions. Unfortunately, an outing at Sweetgrass meant that Sage Run was our only option, as our itinerary was tight.
Sage Run offers a scenic test that winds its way around bordering hardwoods with expansive views. I liked its wide fairways and how the layout delivered a variety of looks and shots. And it’s challenging to pick the right tees. Although the scorecard doesn’t list hybrid tees, the starter suggested ones that fit our games. So that’s a good tip. I also liked the occasional use of white stones as directional guides when playing blind holes. It was mindful of the practices seen in Ireland, most notably at Lahinch’s renowned Dell hole (the par-3 #5). It’s a nice touch.
The greens at Sage Run are confounding and require special attention for first-time players. However, they roll well in general. On the front side, we favored the short uphill par-four 8th hole. From the tips, it’s 298 yards, but we opted for the tee at 254 yards. It’s a risk-reward hole where the brave and long can go for the green or play a safer route to the landing zone well short of the green. A well-designed hole.
On the back, we liked the uphill par-three 14th hole. You can’t see the green, but it’s a receptive one with friendly shaping and collection areas. The key is hitting enough club.
Besides the super-fast golf carts and scenic layout, the best part of playing at Sage Run was our playing partners, two active Navy personnel stationed in Wisconsin. Friendly and courteous companions, we shared lots of laughs. Sometimes, being paired up randomly on the first tee becomes the highlight of the day.
By the way, Sage Run is named for one of the four traditional medicines used in Potawatomi ceremonies. The others are sweetgrass, cedar, and tobacco.
The best place to stay in the area is the Island Resort & Casino, offering good rooms, a spa, dining options, and, of course, the always-popular casino. We had a delightful dinner at the aptly named Horizon Steakhouse at the Resort, located on the 12th hole. We compared notes on our round while savoring views at sunset of Sweetgrass GC resting below.
Greywalls 6th hole
The other course on our UP itinerary was the much-acclaimed Greywalls GC in Marquette. Opened in 2005 and designed by Michigan architect Mike DeVries of The Kingsley Club and Pilgrim’s Run fame, Greywalls should be on every serious golfer’s bucket list. On its front nine, it sports some of the most adventurous holes I’ve ever encountered. Due to the rolling topography of the fairways, the unforgiving yet beautiful rock outcroppings, and considerable movement in the greens, Greywalls is a stern test. In alpine ski terminology, I would rank it as a “black diamond” for difficulty. On the day we played, the greens were stamped faster due to a member tournament, so putting was even more of a challenge.
However, despite its demands, we thoroughly enjoyed the experience and would welcome a return visit. As noted, the opening nine is a wild ride, with roller-coaster fairways set inside spectacular rock formations. Its bold design is the result of two factors: one, the minimalist wizardry of DeVries, and two, the modest building budget when conceived. Long-time PGA Director of Golf Marc Gilmour admitted there wasn’t enough capital at the time to dynamite the rocky terrain and flatten it to more normal standards. So, DeVries did what architects did 100 years ago: work magic presented to you. When playing Greywalls, keep these thoughts in mind. Along the way, appreciate the greens sites found on holes 4, 5, and 6.
The back nine of the layout, known as the “valley holes,” which begin on the 11th, offers a less taxing golf experience. The topography lends itself to flatter lies and carries. The 12th green is smartly concave in design to receive and hold shots.
Over the years, I’ve heard many comments—both pro and con—about the finishing hole, but to me, it was fine. It’s an unadorned downhill par-five whose fairway is shaped and funneled to place good drives in the center. The green is open and receptive without bunkers or penalty areas. I don’t know what the fuss is about because the finishing hole must return to ground level, where one started. I walked off pleased the hole was not penal.
On that score, I would urge competitive golfers to use the Stableford Method for their games or play match play at Greywalls. You don’t want to be overly score-conscious where holing everything out is required. Leave that for another day.
Greywalls is to be enjoyed and remembered.
