Our delayed Christmas finally arrived, and an impressive bit of consumerism it was. It took hours to open our presents, granted that we try to do it attentively, one person ripping into a gift at a time. Once the tinsel settled it was time to start working on dinner, and more importantly, beer tasting.
Glenn on the left
Son-in-law Glenn Brunetti and I were the main perpetrators, though a few others drifted by for a taste of Ommegang’s Everything Naughty. I’ve mentioned Ommegang many times before, for the simple reason, as Glenn said, “They never disappoint.” That includes three previous mentions in the 12 Beers of Christmas: Adoration Dark Winter Ale in 2014, Winter is Here in 2017, and the cousin to this year’s entry, Everything Nice in 2021.
That gave me a chance, back in 2021, to write about Robert Southey, author of the nursery rhyme that included the “everything nice” that little girls are made of. But the naughty/nice opposition most readily derives from “Santa Claus Is Coming to Town,” written in 1934.
The story goes that lyricist Haven Gillespe’s publisher urged him to write a children’s Christmas song, but Gillespe wasn’t thrilled over the idea since he had just attended his brother’s funeral. Nonetheless, while riding the subway, he jotted the lyrics to the song. He took them to composer J. Fred Coots, who outlined the basic melody in all of ten minutes.
The song may have died a quick death, but instead it was picked up by Eddie Cantor for his radio show and the night after it aired, Coots and Gillespe had a hit on their hands. It’s now a classic, having been covered by the immediate world, from Bing Crosby to Bruce Springsteen, and certainly played a part in both the creators winding up in the Songwriters Hall of Fame.
The “kids,” if we can still call them that.
As for naughty beers, this one is certainly outside the mainstream from the get-go as a blonde stout, thanks to blonde roasted malt. There’s still a coffee aroma to be had, as Glenn said, “We definitely get the notes of white chocolate and coffee, and I’m picking up some orange zest toward the finish.”
I’m not so sure I got the white as part of the chocolate aroma, and I only picked up some coffee after I had a sip. I detected what I thought were some apricot notes and my wife had a go and suggested tangerine. Despite the fruitiness, there’s a full and velvety mouthful to the beer.
It’s an interesting journey from entry to finish, to be sure. “I wish it were a little sweeter. maybe,” said Glenn. “I like it, but I don’t love it. And it’s a little strong for me.” I was feeling this one pretty quickly, too. Have enough of the beer, and who knows what naughtiness might ensue.
Name: Everything Naughty
Brewer: Brewery Ommegang, Cooperstown, New York
Style: Blond stout
ABV: 9.5%
Availability: Limited seasonal beer, more or less nationally
For More Information: www.Ommegang.com
[December 27, 2023]
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